Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo have pioneered the Texas wine industry with their Messina Hof winery in Bryan.
By Ron Saikowski Houston Wine Walk
Published: 12.16.08
This week we look at Messina Hof Winery in Bryan, not far from Texas A&M University.
Little did Paul Bonarrigo know when he moved from the east coast to Texas in December 1971, he would be making history as a Texas wine maker.
Paul received his Physical Therapy degree from Columbia University, served in the Navy for three years, and then received a great job offer from St. Joseph Hospital to start a Physical Therapy Department. Paul also started a private physical therapy practice as a side business which continues to the present. During one of his treatment sessions, he met Ron Perry who was working on his PHD dissertation on the economic feasibility of growing grapes in Texas. This subject deeply interested Paul who was the first-born son in his generation from a family of wine makers from Messina, Sicily. The first-born son of each generation of the Bonarrigo family is taught wine-making and is presented a red hat on his 16th birthday as the family’s sign for each generation of first-born winemakers. Traditions run strong in Italian families, especially the Bonarrigo’s. In 1977, Paul planted the first of his vineyards. Year after year he planted additional acres of grapes. Year after year, he looked for the best areas to plant wine grapes. Today, the Bonarrigo’s have 40 acres of grapes at their winery complex in Bryan with another 250 acres of grapes on the High Plains of Texas.
Paul’s dream of making wine from those grapes began in 1983 with the production and release of 1,300 gallons of wine from his winery operations just “down the street” from his therapy firm in Bryan. Although Paul and his wife, Merrill Bonarrigo, have grown the winery into one of Texas’ largest, Paul still follows the advice he gives to all new wine makers, being “Don’t give up your day job.” This advice stems from Paul’s many years of experience and the riskiness of the wine business.
Paul Bonarrigo has become an icon in the Texas wine industry, being a leader and dreamer. He was President of the Texas Wine & Grape Grower’s Association three different times and a member of the Board of Directors for many years. The Bonarrigo’s are known for their charitable tendencies, helping many nonprofit organizations and many new wine makers. Paul and Merrill’s oldest son is also named Paul in the tradition of the Bonarrigo family and is following in his father’s footsteps, having just finished serving several years in the Navy. This youngest Paul is posed to follow further in the family tradition by continuing in making wine at MESSINA HOF WINERY.
The winery and vineyards are a marriage of two cultures, being the Bonarrigo’s from Messina and Merrill’s family from Hof, Germany. Hence the winery was named Messina Hof. This marriage of two cultures has evolved an “old world feel” for the winery grounds. The winery is adorned with icons of Sicily and Germany with statues and pictures of cherubs, grapes, and ionic columns. The winery has become much more than just a 40-acre vineyard with winery. The 100-acre campus also contains a large wine tasting room overlooking a lake, the Vintage House Restaurant overlooking the vineyards, and an exclusive Resort Hotel with unique, European-style rooms. The wine dream has evolved into Brazos County’s second most popular tourist attraction (TAMU and President Bush’s Library rank as #1.)
The Bonarrigo’s winery, MESSINA HOF WINERY, produces over 30 different wines with multi-tier levels of quality. This variety of wine will satisfy almost any appetite. The European tradition of hospitality, fine food, and wines continues with the Bonarrigo family.
There will be a Vineyard seminar on grape growing at the BERNHARDT WINERY on Jan. 31, Feb. 7 and Feb. 28 . This seminar provides hands-on experiences in the BERNHARDT VINEYARDS under the watchful eye of JERRY BERNHARDT. This seminar is a MUST if you are interested in starting your own vineyard or growing grapes in your back yard. If you want a unique Christmas present, consider giving the gift of this seminar of grape growing. Seminar fee of $30 per person includes a light luncheon paired with Bernhardt Wines. For more information, call (936) 894-9829.
Treat your “special someone” to any of these upcoming wine-related events which I believe will be enjoyable and educational:
Dec. 19 – Bernhardt Winery will be hosting a Christmas celebration of luminaries from 5 to 10 p.m. with an evening concert featuring Kevin Black, Conrad Olson, Silver Shoes, and others. Hay rides will also be provided. “Cookin Cowboy Catering” will be providing Chuck Wagon cooking for the winery guests.
Dec. 31 – New Year’s Eve Gala at Messina Hof Winery in Bryan. This is a first class event held inside a winery to celebrate the New Year, complete with dinner, wines, and a play. For more information, go to www.messinahof.com.
This week we will look at several great PORTS made in Texas. Each PORT has its own unique approach to appealing to the senses. These PORTS pair great with a dark chocolate treat and provide a lasting remembrance of a wonderful evening. Enjoy one of these PORTS:
MESSINA HOF EBONY PORTS OF CALL - This wine is fermented naturally to 16 percent. It has tones of chocolate-covered cherries. ($19 per 750 ML bottle)
FLAT CREEK ESTATE PORT – This ruby-garnet wine is made in the traditional Portuguese style and is loaded with plum pudding and chocolate tones. ($29.95 for 500 ML bottle)
BERNHARDT WINERY PORT – This Port has wonderful oak tones combined with a dark berry/ black cherry bouquet made with a 20 year old Brandy. ($29 per 375 ML bottle)
PLEASANT HILL WINERY TAWNY ROSSO FORTE is a caramelized version of a Port. ($24.95 per 750 ML bottle).